Canyon Country and Winding Roads of the Colorado Plateau: Arches, Canyonlands, and Capitol Reef

Buckskin Gulch, near Kanab, Utah, holds the longest and deepest slot canyon in the U.S.

The Colorado Plateau always calls us back.

Over the years we’ve traveled, camped, and wandered across its vast landscape of arches, fins, hoodoos, and red rock canyons. From the ribboned cliffs of Grand Staircase–Escalante National Monument to the sculpted formations of Arches National Park, the sun-soaked trails of Canyonlands National Park, and the geologic folds of Capitol Reef National Park, canyon country offers endless opportunities for adventure and wonder.

One of the trips that helped launch—years later—a full year of travel was a visit to Canyonlands and a drive down the famously dramatic Shafer Trail.

Often listed among the most intimidating scenic drives in the American Southwest, the trail descends steep switchbacks from Island in the Sky down into the canyon below. We had a rental car and cautiously put it through its paces, navigating the tight hairpins and steep grades before reaching the canyon floor.

Shafer Trail, Island in the Sky, Canyonlands

The road continues toward the White Rim Road, a legendary backcountry route that loops for more than 100 miles through mesas and buttes. That night, we were lucky enough to claim a canyon-floor campsite all our own, under one of the most spectacular desert night skies we had ever seen.

Lessons from the Desert

That same trip included hikes that revealed the wonders of Colorado Plateau geology—the slow work of water and wind shaping sandstone over millions of years, and the immediate reality of the desert sun.

A favorite part of the Syncline Loop Trail, Canyonlands

An unplanned afternoon hike on the Syncline Loop Trail accidentally sent us walking straight into the heat of the day. What started as a casual outing quickly turned into a brush with heat exhaustion, saved by the welcome arrival of evening shade and the cooling air of sunset.

A cooling night exit of the Syncline Loop Trail, Canyonlands.

It was a lasting lesson in desert travel: the landscape is beautiful, but it demands respect.

A Steep Descent in Arches

A keyhole view through the Windows of Arches National Park, Utah.

More recently we tackled another famous canyon road near Arches National Park—the dramatic switchbacks of Long Canyon Road.

This steep dirt road drops through towering sandstone walls and passes beneath the massive fallen boulder known locally as “Pucker Pass.” Along the route, you’ll even see a few abandoned vintage vehicles that didn’t quite make the descent, serving as a reminder to check road conditions carefully.

The road eventually winds toward the Colorado River, where cool water and wide canyon views offer a welcome pause.

We explored the area while camping in BLM dispersed sites along Willow Springs Road, just outside Moab. The sandy two-track roads are popular with mountain bikers and off-highway vehicles, and they provide an alternate approach toward Arches National Park—keep an eye out for the dinosaur tracks along the approach road.

Cathedral Valley

While on the subject of unforgettable canyon drives, it’s impossible not to mention Cathedral Valley.

Cathedral Valley vista, Capitol Reef National Park

This remote route through Capitol Reef National Park begins with a shallow Fremont River crossing before continuing into a wide desert basin where towering sandstone monoliths rise from the valley floor.

The Temples, Cathedral Valley, Capitol Reef.

The most famous formations—Temple of the Sun and Temple of the Moon—stand like natural cathedrals against the desert sky. Driving the loop reveals more columns, cliffs, and sweeping vistas before climbing toward high desert campsites and routes that continue into nearby national forest lands.

Traveling Canyon Country

Exploring canyon country always requires preparation.

Flash floods, shifting sand, and even a small amount of rain can transform desert roads into thick “peanut butter” mud. We travel with respect for the landscape and its conditions—carrying water, extra fuel, recovery boards, and relying on a high-clearance vehicle when venturing onto remote roads.

The reward is access to some of the most extraordinary landscapes in the American West.

Looking up through the North Window toward Turret Arch in the Windows Section of Arches National Park.